A! Magazine for the Arts

Vince McGill in 'The Shawshank Redemption'

Vince McGill in 'The Shawshank Redemption'

Barter's 'Shawshank' costumes are made for them by inmates

August 26, 2024

In the dimly lit backstage corridors of Barter Theatre, the cast of “The Shawshank Redemption” put on uniforms that are more than mere costumes. These prison uniforms are painstakingly stitched together by the hands of actual prisoners and enhance the realism of the production with an unparalleled level of authenticity. As the actors slip into the rough, coarse fabric, they are not only stepping into their roles, they are stepping into the lives of those who crafted these garments. This connection to the real-world experience of incarceration deepens their performance and brings a profound emotional weight to the stage.

Each thread and seam of these uniforms tells a story of resilience and redemption, mirroring the very essence of “The Shawshank Redemption.” For the prisoners who created them, it is a rare opportunity to contribute to the outside world, to leave a mark beyond the prison walls. For the cast, it is a poignant reminder of the human lives entwined with their art. This collaboration between those inside and outside the prison system transcends the boundaries of the stage, offering a powerful testament to the shared humanity that binds us all.

An important design element is that prisoners during the mid-20th century did not wear jumpsuits or scrubs. They wore jeans and button-up shirts. And they were allowed to wear belts and/or suspenders and have shoe laces - all of which are forbidden now.

“As I was searching online to find enough shirts and jeans, remembering they have to be identical to each other, in the sizes for our cast, I kept running into ‘out of stock’ notices. Finally, I decided to just go to the manufacturer’s website and try to buy the clothes directly from them,” explained Barter’s Costume Shop Manager Alice Sullivan. “The label is Prison Blues, manufactured by Correction Connection.

What I learned from the website is that this company employs people who are incarcerated in Oregon.”

Sullivan learned the inmates construct the garments, which are used throughout the Oregon Department of Corrections, but also sold for profit.

“The company motto ‘Made on the INSIDE to be worn on the OUTSIDE’ is actually true. This really spoke to me,” Sullivan said. “The authenticity of the clothing supports the work our actors are doing in creating their characters. These are not just costumes. The costumes are real prison uniforms and are very similar to the uniforms worn by inmates in the 20th century.”

“When people picture Red and Andy (DuFresne) in their minds they always see Morgan Freeman and Tim Robbins as they looked in the film,” Sullivan said. “And what I really like about the costume design for the film is that the inmates’ shirts are not just plain, blue chambray work shirts. They are actually striped - known as Hickory Shirts. The small stripes add texture and depth.”

Additionally, the uniforms came in actual sizes, whereas today the options are small, medium, large, etc. This was much more expensive to the taxpayer, and required more labor to produce and maintain, than the uniforms we know today.

“Some of the cast members were so impressed they asked for the company website so they could buy things for their personal wardrobes,” Sullivan noted. “The clothing is competitively priced, but the quality is much better than most anything else on the market. For instance, the Prison Blues jeans do not have any spandex, and they are constructed from heavy denim.

“Anyone who wore blue jeans in the mid to late 20th century will remember when Levi’s would last for years. That’s what these jeans are — old school Levi’s. Correction Connection uses very high-quality fabrics and thread. The workmanship is outstanding. These garments are meant to last for years, and they will - physically and also in the minds of the audience,” Sullivan says.

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